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Last December, Esquire magazine A pair of 2-ton granite grinding stones shaped like tractor wheels on top of each other. Spencer poured wheat kernels through a hole in the top one. They were soon ground into flour and spit out below. I told him I had an embarrassing question. Some, he told me, would consider it blasphemy to refer to a jonnycake as a pancake. These, he said, were among the original American food going back to the Pilgrims themselves.

They taste more like a crunchy form of cornbread, done in thick, circular cakes. They can be four or five inches across, but aficionados, he said, prefer them almost as small as a Morgan silver dollar. The Pilgrims, he explained, found Native Americans eating cornmeal mush mixed with water and wanted to find a way to carry it with them, so they began cooking it into cakes on hot stones.

Over time, it was Americanized to jonnycakes. Drumm loves to talk about the history. The acreage around the mill, he said, was given to a group of South County families in a land transfer by King Charles of England. The first mill building was put up in , though later destroyed by fire.

The Kenyon family bought it in and became the first to start selling cornmeal in small boxes. But he grew intrigued with the operation and, in , mortgaged his house to buy it.

He soon fell in love with the life of a cornmeal maker. It has been his main pursuit ever since. Paul Drumm III started at an even younger age than his dad, helping out when he was around 10, then going into it full-time after graduating from the University of Rhode Island in Some of their numbers are trade secrets, but Drumm says they today grind between 30 and 60 tons of grains a year, and sell about , 1- to 6-pound bags of mix under the Kenyon name.

As we talked, Spencer, who has been here 20 years, continued milling pounds of wheat kernels. The building vibrated as the stones turned. Spencer kept making small adjustments to the wheels. To mill perfect cornmeal, Drumm explained, you have to feed the grain just right while adjusting the sliver of space between the stones.

You do it by feel and ear. He loves his, and loves the location, too: Surrounded by the Queen River, a waterfall and scenic woods. A key attraction, says Drumm, will be demonstrations of jonnycake making.

The master, he says, is Dick Donnelly, a longtime friend of the mill and former school principal now in his 70s who some might call the Julia Child of jonnycakes. But Drumm says two other longtime experts who will also be doing demos — Barbara Stetson and Tom Gardiner — are more liberal.

He adds there are endless ways to serve jonnycakes. The South County style, he said, is to make them thick — almost half an inch. You can add cream sauce and peas. Some like them with sausage gravy, others with salsa or jelly. He said this is it. The village of Usquepaug is now just the Kenyon mill. Drumm spends his time in management tasks but says two other parts of the job give him the most fulfillment. He often thinks about the footsteps that have gone through this property, from the Narragansetts to the early mill workers.

At that, he walked outside around the back by the Queen River and nearby waterfall. The afternoon sun lit up the foliage. Combine dry ingredients in a bowl. Drop onto a well-greased griddle or fry pan and cook for 6 minutes, drizzle with oil, then flip and cook an additional minutes.

There will be bluegrass music on two stages, a Colonial encampment and dozens of artisan, animal and restaurant exhibits. Free parking is at Washington County Fairgrounds nearby with regular shuttle buses. Digital access or digital and print delivery.

He was also covered in grain dust. I asked if you coat them in maple syrup. Call looked stern again. Drumm, the owner, shook his head. One is when he gets to do the milling himself. The other is keeping alive a year-old Rhode Island tradition. For a moment, Drumm was quiet as he took it all in.

And a beautiful life.

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You do it by feel and ear. He loves his, and loves the location, too: Surrounded by the Queen River, a waterfall and scenic woods. A key attraction, says Drumm, will be demonstrations of jonnycake making.

The master, he says, is Dick Donnelly, a longtime friend of the mill and former school principal now in his 70s who some might call the Julia Child of jonnycakes. But Drumm says two other longtime experts who will also be doing demos — Barbara Stetson and Tom Gardiner — are more liberal. He adds there are endless ways to serve jonnycakes. The South County style, he said, is to make them thick — almost half an inch. You can add cream sauce and peas. Some like them with sausage gravy, others with salsa or jelly.

He said this is it. The village of Usquepaug is now just the Kenyon mill. Drumm spends his time in management tasks but says two other parts of the job give him the most fulfillment. He often thinks about the footsteps that have gone through this property, from the Narragansetts to the early mill workers. At that, he walked outside around the back by the Queen River and nearby waterfall.

The afternoon sun lit up the foliage. Combine dry ingredients in a bowl. Drop onto a well-greased griddle or fry pan and cook for 6 minutes, drizzle with oil, then flip and cook an additional minutes. There will be bluegrass music on two stages, a Colonial encampment and dozens of artisan, animal and restaurant exhibits. Free parking is at Washington County Fairgrounds nearby with regular shuttle buses. Digital access or digital and print delivery. He was also covered in grain dust.

I asked if you coat them in maple syrup. Call looked stern again. Drumm, the owner, shook his head. One is when he gets to do the milling himself. The content you are looking for is reserved for site members only.

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